Monday, March 31, 2008

Artist Relations

Photographs by fashionartedit

"Artist Relations". Wallpaper. By Glenn Waldron. March 2008. 
excerpted quotes:

"And there have been relatively few artists whose work can fit into the restraints and demands of the fashion industry. In that way, Murakami is breaking new ground, and I don't know of anyone comparable".  (Jeremy Strick, MOCA Director)

"One of the most radical aspects of Murakami's wok is his willingness both to embrace exploit the idea of his brand, to mingle his identity with a corporate identity and play with that. He realised from the beginning that if you don't address the commercial aspect of the work, it's somehow like the elephant in the room". (Paul Shimmel, MOCA Chief Curator)

"But one reason I admire Marc very much is that he doesn't care about trends. Marc has his won vision, and for him, using artists has always been a way to add more weight to that". (Yves Carcelle, President of LVMH Fashion)

"Bourgeoisie like to use intellectuals to clean up their soul. They think progressive, cutting-edge work is good for their image. So did they use me? Sure, and fairly cheaply. They didn't pay that much, just like a museum. But in some ways, I like to be used. I felt threatened in the store. It;s too much, too many shoes, too many bags, too much with the art. But I like to be threatened; it's like being in a war zone". (Vanessa Beecroft)

"Of course I was concerned with the idea that art is being used, and whether the context pf the work would be disruptive to the quality of the work. But in the end I decided it was OK. Besides, I'm being accused of things all the time, and selling out is just one of them".

"There are no autonomous non-political spaces left". (Olafur Eliasson)

"You work with an artist and you have to give them complete freedom. That is the price you have to pay". 

"It took Marc five years to find another artist to work with and it isn't the kind of thing we want to do every season or even every spring. Maybe we won't do anything for another ten years - the last thing we would like everybody to think is that every year there will be new artists". (Yves Carcelle, President of LVMH Fashion)

"I had in mind that artists were closer to God in the creative hierarchy, more divinely inspired. I was just a designer and I felt I didn't have the right to think about art". (Marc Jacobs)

"We wanted to choose artists whose work already shows an affinity with the icons of Chanel. The company is like a modern-day Medici; it wants art expressed in the brand". (Peter Marino)

"As a company, Calvin Klein wants to be associated with what's new, what's current. We want energy". 

"Of Course, the "art thing" is very fashionable right now, which can be a bit sickening - it seems very easy. But we're pleased by what we've done to support art over the years and hope we can do more, not just financially, but bring awareness to the customers we cater to". (Francisco Costa)

"With our field becoming the object of so much attention, it;s inevitable that artists are seen as kind of celebrities now". 

"If art becomes the next Hollywood, well, I don't think we can stop that". (Francesco Vezzoli)

"Within the art world , there are certain suspicions of the artist's intentions, and what the benefits could be. And the assumption is that it's always the fashion industry making the approach". 

"The obvious danger is indicated in the name: fashion. Fashion is temporal and transitory - as well it should be - but then for artists there's a danger that their work will be perceived in the same way, too. I also think there's a real problem treating the persona of the artist as the artwork". 

"It depends entirely on whether it fits with in a particular artist's creative practice. And with someone like Murakami, it fits perfectly". (Jessica Morgan, Tate Modern)
It's about how we think now. We don't want to compartmentalise our lives - whether it's art, fashion, architecture, whatever. The limits just aren't clear anymore". (Yves Carcelle, President of LVMH Fashion). 

Sunday, March 30, 2008

Terence Koh "Private Collection"

Terence Koh "Private Collection". Purple Fashion S/S 2008. 

Louis Vuitton // Richard Prince

Louis Vuitton // Richard Prince. Text by Glenn O'Brien. Purple Fashion S/S 2008. 
excerpted quotes:

"The collision between fashion and art has never been so direct". 

"I this collaboration the end of an era or the beginning of a closer collaboration between artist and designer?"

"I can feel the dogs nipping at my feet. Backlash is lashing?" (Richard Prince). 

"It takes guts to be a real artist. Given the current state of culture almost anything worth doing is going to divide people along factional lines, and inspire pockets of venomous, virulent hatred". 

"But the world has become so enormously small since it networked itself up". 

"The zeitgeist is fraught with paranoia that as the successful artist seeks to feed the insatiable maw of the international, cannibalistic television eye, he must navigate with trepidation, or with the naive and elastic steps of a fool". 

"Nowadays artists must be daring or oblivious. Or both. The art world punishes all those who offend. Not only will artists who make good work be hated by the philistines, they will also eventually be hated by the world that nurtured them, including the speculator collectors whose unrealistic expectations of profit are even slightly unfulfilled - and also hated, of course, by their snarky, armed and dangerous peers. There are a lot of gunslingers in this town". 

"Who says that art starts and stops anyway? The art world isn't Chechnya or Botswana. Its borders are negotiable - fictionable even". 

"Art is art. Fashion is fashion. Art will never be fashion. Fashion will never be art. But that doesn't mean that they can't fuck. Or fight. Or both! Who wouldn't pay to watch that?   

"Maybe what was wrong with painting in the first place was that girls couldn't carry it around with them. Maybe what was wrong with fashion in the first place was that it wasn't quite confusing and alienating enough. I know this collaboration is a once-in-a-lifetime thing. It really couldn't be duplicated or repeated. But medical science makes advances in longevity everyday. Besides, something happened here. I smell smoke". 

Patrik Soderstam

Patrik Soderstam. Livraison issue 3 SECRET IDENTITIES. 2007-2008. 

Helmut Lang

Helmut Lang. Livraison issue 3 SECRET IDENTITIES. 2007-2008.  

Friday, March 28, 2008

Stefano Tonchi "What I do is What I Like"

Stefano Tonchi. Interview by Payam Sharifi. 032c issue #14 2007/2008. 
excerpted quotes:

"We like to say that fashion is the closest thing to a "mirror of society" - just because then you have to justify everything that happens in fashion with some political reason. That is not true. When you think about fashion and contemporary society, fashion is a mirror of it - but a mirror in the mood, a mirror in the atmosphere, a mirror in the sensibility. It's a good mirror. That doesn't mean that the skirt gets long because the economy is bad - that's really an old way of reading fashion to make it more relevant than what it is. That's not the thing. Fashion expresses the mood of people much more than any other media. Especially at this specific time. That's why so many great people are working in fashion, so many designers who have been in different fields before". 

"Well, especially with magazines, we are moving away  form simple information and becoming more and more of a very decadent society dealing with the pleasures of life. What is lifestyle? It's the things that we like to do, the things we don't consider obligations..."

"Yeah, I think so. When I think about it I think about the places you want to see and visit, the cultures you want to know more about. It's the things around you, the objects around you, and you can include clothes there, you can include your home ... And that's what I call "the life-style capital"". 

"I think it's just another area. Art is what fashion was maybe 20-30 years ago in that sense. It's a way to express yourself, express your taste. It's also a way to entertain and enjoy life. In the same way people used to enjoy shopping, now they enjoy going to art fairs".    

"I mean, through the difference between looking at a very beautiful garment by Gianni Versace, evolving to looking at a beautiful garment by Comme des Garcons. Moving from a portrait by Julian Schnabel to something like..."

Juergen Teller

Juergen Teller. Interview by Luis Venegas. Fanzine137  11.137 WE ARE THE WORLD. 
excerpted quotes:

"Of course I like clothes and they are very important in my photographs. I've been taking fashion photographs for 20 years now: there is your answer". 

"I'm excited and curious how it all ends too..."

"To have a clear idea and be open-minded is a good way forward". 

"I don't see them as clients, more like collaborators coming up with something we're both excited about". 

"I don't try to be shocking; some things just need to be said". 

"I was never interested in money, status and so forth; that's why I didn't move to New York, and, maybe because of it, it comes. The biggest luxury is having time". 

Thursday, March 27, 2008

Miuccia Prada "The Patroness"

Miuccia Prada. Interview by Michael Kimmelman. New York Times Magazine. March 23, 2008.
excerpted quotes:  

"Anything you learn makes you feel more open"

"Art is more or less my second career. You meet people by chance. Mariko Mori, for example, in New York. She had a dream. I was pushing artists toward big projects. That was then. For two years we did movies. We tried a convention with artists and philosophers. That didn't work. You know when you're doing something relevant or just doing something." 

"In the last few years, I have come to understand the value of fashion."

"I always felt guilty about being interested in it, but now I can say that it's creative work and it relates to the world, and people buy because it means something to them beyond the logo, I'm sure. I appreciate the business part of it as an honest business transaction. I wouldn't have said this 20 years ago, but to be an entrepreneur is creative. Why be a fake moralist and say you don't care about money - all though to say I do it for money is crazy."

"I say all this because it was a little ridiculous how I wanted to keep entirely separate the art and fashion. In the end, I'm the same person. At the moment, I'm very happy to be a designer because some women like to put my dresses on, while mane people in art are frustrated with all the money and they are asking what does it mean."

"I'm searching". 

"We're not so naive as to think that we don't contribute to this business" (Carsten Holler). 

"But it's beyond money. Above all, I think it's about the fact that she's afraid of being vulgar" (Cartsen Holler).

"You can say that, but with Miuccia, the transfer from art is never straight. She's never trying to play the artist" (Thomas Demand). 

Wednesday, March 26, 2008

Jop van Bennekom

Jop van Bennekom.Interview by Jason Crombie. Wooooo. #5.
excerpted quotes:

"God, that's such a boring question! That's exactly the question I didn't expect from Wooooo".

"Let's make a gay sex magazine but lets combine it with art and fashion and stuff! That was our initial idea. Well, the art and fashion never really came in and it sort of became just realistic...Like a reality sex magazine".

"Ummm...God, there's so many things we have to reject". 

"We do want to push the adversity within the...I get the feeling you're not gay". 

Tuesday, March 25, 2008

Helmut Lang "Next Ever After"

Helmut Lang.Interview by Neville Wakefield. the journal. Entry #21.
excerpted quotes:

"I think its quite active from either side. It reminds me of a beehive right now. It has all become one".

"Not at all, I think the moment when I decided to work beyond fashion, it felt more like an evolution. It is like a lot of the decisions in my life that have already been there unconsciously".

"I thought that I would want to express things in different mediums. Too many things had become positively predictable".

"Yes, but where there's confinement there's also independence".